Generally speaking it will be warm, and so I recommend the climbing in left fork and dairy canyon/right fork most of all.
You have to do the angler V2 in left fork. You should also go over the river and check out Low Tide V6 (also, the grades are soft and you should try harder things here).
Near here in the right sign area is Wills of Fire V6. This is a must do/try on one of the best single boulders you'll ever see.
Also in Left Fork is Kill by Numbers V5, a north facing roof by the road. Highly recommended.
In Right fork is dairy canyon. This is basically the coolest spot in Joe's AFAIK. Look at MP for beta.. I went there once and was just running around like crazy, everything was awesome.
In right fork, frosted flakes V4 on the hulk boulder is supposed to be great for the grade tho I havent done it.
Do left fork preferentially
New Joes drive
Wills of fire approach
Kill by Numbers (V5 Must-do roof. Shady.)
Mine cart/Kill by Numbers parking
Eden (Bring the Heatwole V7 *** Being the knee pad! Named after Eric!)
Wills of Fire (Wills of Fire V6 **** One of the very best boulders in the US.)
Right sign parking
Low Tide (V6, wade over river. Try it!)
Riverside Boulders (The Angler V2 *** Must do!)
Maxipad (Shady, sandbagged **** V6)
Dairy Canyon boulders (One of the coolest (temp wise) spots in Joes. V3 and up. )
Dairy Canyon parking
The Hulk (Frosted Flakes V5)
No Additives (V7-12)
Warmup (1.8 mi)
New Joes parking lot
New Joe's (Sunny)
Right fork camping #3 (2.4 mi)
Right fork camping #2
New Joes campsite (Sunny camping)
Right fork camping
Palenque (Mexican food)
Wilcox Laundry & Dry Cleaning
Castle Dale Liquor Agency
Dump & Water Refills
Emery County Aquatic Center
Clay Banks Swale Camping (Sounds legit? 1/2 miles from fork)
Raiden Area (?)