Route from Glacier Lodge to Middle Palisade, over Southfork Pass, over Mather Pass and over Split Peak

Middle Palisade (?Middle Palisade (4271 m; 14,040 ft) The top of Middle Palisade is a knife-edge fin, approximately 300 feet long. Further reading: Porcella, pp. 148?161. Northeast Face. Class 3. First ascent June 7, 1930, by Norman Clyde. First winter ascent January 2, 1960, by John Mendenhall and Tom Condon. You can approach the start of this route either from the top of the moraine that divides the Middle Palisade Glacier, or by climbing the southern half of the glacier. Gain a ledge that climbs diagonally up and right. Follow the ledge about half way and go up and left to a wide chute. Follow this chute to where it is possible to traverse into the next chute to the right (this point is marked by a patch of white or lightly colored reddish-brown rock, depending on one?s mood, it seems). Follow the left branch of this chute to its left-hand ridge crest just below the summit. Variation: From reading Clyde?s account of the climb (Touring Topics, August 1931, p. 32) it appears that he climbed directly from the northern half of the Middle Palisade Glacier to the large chute that is at the far right-hand[?]? Excerpt From: R.J. Secor. ?High Sierra.? iBooks. https://itun.es/us/7HZnX.l)
Southfork Pass (?Southfork Pass (3800 m+; 12,560 ft+) Class 3. Southfork Pass is used to gain access to the Palisade Creek drainage from the South Fork of Big Pine Creek. This difficult cross-country route should only be undertaken by experienced mountaineers. An ice ax, crampons, and a rope may be needed. The easiest northern approach to the pass starts from the south side of Finger Lake. Follow the inlet stream uphill to where it forks. Take the left (southeast) fork and pass two small lakes while traversing over a sea of talus and small cliffs to Pass 3660 m+ (12,000 ft+; 0.5 mi W of the Thumb; UTM 707037). Descend the east side of the pass to the small glacier beneath the north side of Southfork Pass. From this point, the best route is almost impossible to describe. Nevertheless ? Two passes are visible, each with a chute/couloir that leads to the top of Southfork Pass. ?East Southfork Pass? (UTM 709032) usually has a passable bergschrund, but its lower portion is usually a steep, narrow ice funnel; the middle portion of the chute is gentler and broader, but it has loose rock, unless it is covered with snow or ice[?]? Excerpt From: R.J. Secor. ?High Sierra.? iBooks. https://itun.es/us/7HZnX.l)
Split Mountain (?Split Mountain (4280 m+; 14,058 ft) This mountain was once known as ?South Palisade.? It is easily identified from the Owens Valley by the large East Couloir that leads to the notch between its two summits. The north summit is the high point. After Mount Whitney, this is the easiest 14,000-foot peak in the Sierra. First ascent July 1887 by Frank Saulque and party, via an unknown route. Further reading: Porcella, pp. 134?147. North Slope. Class 2. First ascent July 23, 1902, by Joseph and Helen LeConte, and Curtis Lindley. Ascend to the saddle between Mount Prater and Split Mountain from Upper Basin and climb the easy talus slopes to the summit. North Slope from the East. Class 3. The north slope can be reached from Red Lake by crossing Red Lake Pass.? Excerpt From: R.J. Secor. ?High Sierra.? iBooks. https://itun.es/us/7HZnX.l)